Fits well as OEM replacement. There''s a LONG story below... NO TIME for the LONG STORY? Cutting it to a SHORT STORY: drilling out the housing ports & mixer cylinder with a 5/32 drill bit and as long as you do not have plugged/clogged piping causing the low flow...
Fits well as OEM replacement. There''s a LONG story below... NO TIME for the LONG STORY?
Cutting it to a SHORT STORY: drilling out the housing ports & mixer cylinder with a 5/32 drill bit and as long as you do not have plugged/clogged piping causing the low flow issue this WILL INCREASE THE FLOW. I also used an air compressor with a small rubber tip and a can of WD40. It took some time and a lot of repetition, but finally got all the rust and particles out of the lines by allowing WD40 to soak and then blowing air into & through the lines.
I am not a licensed plumber. I am a hands on properly manager who does almost all his own work and I have a lot of experience with these issues. I''ve successfully completed tons of repairs myself. That being said...
My home had clogged copper pipes, which required a high powered air compressor with a small rubber tipped blow gun, a can of WD40 and a lot of patients.
The LONG STORY: Our bathroom was retrofit at the galvanized pipes and adapters added to add copper pipe where the new shower/tub valves were installed (2 valves, 1 shower & 1 tub/shower combo. The shower/tub combo is the one I had multiple issues with low flow/low pressure. They both were working just fine for years before the old galvanized pipes started to clog the copper tubing.
Shortly after the bathroom renovation, say about 3 years later we moved out of the home and decided to use it as a rental property. Our tenant made an "improvement" (translation: added a pressure regulator without owners consent & caused a major water pressure problem) the pressure regulator which our tenant added restricted pressure as intended, therefore created a low flow/low pressure issue, which allowed the newly added copper pipes to begin to collect bits and pieces of rusted pipe at the fittings and smaller bends and areas where they narrow into the Delta valve housing etc.
Rust/corrosion is something that normally happens with all galvanized pipes, so I''m used to clean out aerated faucet ends regularly. However my experiences with pressure regulators has been not been favorable. Pressure regulators are great for new construction with copper piping throughout the home where joints can break free and other seals may become weak from high pressure in the lines.
Older 1950''s and earlier homes used galvanized steel pipes which in my opinion DO NOT NEED PRESSURE REGULATORS, never had them, and never had this problem which I now have with the "tenant improvement".
A plumber will tell you otherwise I''m sure. However my experience is that the pressure regulator on a galvanized pipe system allows poor flow and thus rust accumulates along with bits of rusted/broken pipes and begin to clog the system due to the lack of flow.
I''ve found galvanized pipes last longer where they are free flowing and do not have an restrictive devices, therefore all rust particles/pieces of things that flow through the pipes are allowed to flow through the pipes and out the faucet.
Aerators at the end of each faucet will always plug/clog up, this is normally a small problem and easily fixed by removing faucet aerators/filters from the end of the faucets and cleaning out the broken down rusted pieces from clogging it. However my problem wasn''t so simple. Yes each faucet in the home had pieces of rusted pipe clogging each faucet, yet removing the rusted particles from all the aerators wasn''t the complete remedy.
I first tried altering the Delta cartridges by drilling out the back flow rubber stops at each inlet port all while ensuring not to damage any of the plastic housing. Then separating the valve and removing the stainless steel mixing valve cylinder. I used a 5/32 bit and redrilled each hole to that size while holding a rag around it and placing it in a bench vice (actually hand held it with a rag and pliers and slipped a couple times which caused a couple gashes on my hand, I just thought I''d make it sound a bit safer, as I wouldn''t recommend this way).
Okay finishing up... flow improved but it wasn''t nearly where it should be, so back to diagnosing the issue. I still had low flow after removing the valve and free flowing the water through the housing (I''ll go into this with a bit more detail later on) so I shut off the water for the 20th time and removed the valve once again. I blew out some of the water in both hot and cold side of the housing inside the wall with my 6 gallon air compressor.
Here comes the free flowing water shooting out the valve housing thing; I then took a can of WD40 filed up both sides of the copper lines and let the WD40 sit in there for a while, then took a towel and zip ties it around the outer edge of the valve housing to direct the water downward into the tub.
This gets MESSY! Use a long towel and do your best to secure it or have someone hold it over the housing by hand and direct the water downward with the towel into the tub, water will shoot out with a lot of force so it will most likely make a huge mess if you''re not careful. I repeated this 6-7 more time and installed the valve, I still had a low pressure problem. I finally decided to attempt to blow out all the water in the lines both sides with my air compressor...
So I opened up the faucet in the bathroom sink to allow the water and air to vent as I forced air into the hot side & then the cold side. As I blew out all the water through the home in the hot side pressure would build and start to shoot back out from the force, I decided to close off the sink faucet and kept pressurizing the hot side it made bubbling and gurgling and out came so much rust and particles that I knew I had started to begin to get somewhere. I repeated this step over and over probably 5 more times and each time more stuff came out into the tub, until it finally seemed to run somewhat clear. I then did the same to the cold water side and finally after I felt I had gotten most of the rust and particles out I then installed the Delta replacement valve and turned the water back on. There was so much pressure I couldn''t believe it. FIXED!
I wish Delta wouldn''t have designed their valves with any flow restrictions built in, however there are mandatory regulations in place for manufacturers of water faucets etc.. Our government requires low flow/water saving designs by manufacturers.
There are ways to get around these manufacturer low flow designed products, I always modify my shower heads and anything else that restricts flow and creates a low pressure issue for me. It doesn''t save water after the modification, however it saves time spent on the next low flow repair and I''d dare to go as far as saying saves you money on repairs. Good luck, any issues feel free to post a question/comment and I''ll see if I''m able to help you out with some advice.
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